Will it darken my seat, especially a tan one?
It deepens the color the way a damp rag does while it's on, then settles back as it buffs. There's no dye in it, so no oil-soaked dark look like the heavy conditioners leave. On tan leather, test under the seat or inside a bag flap, and look at it dry.
Will it leave my seat slick or greasy?
Not if you buff it. Wipe it on thin, wait ten minutes, buff until nothing comes off on your hand. What's left is a dry wax finish, not a film. Slick only comes from putting on too much and not buffing it off. Buff it dry before you ride.
Will it gum up the stitching, the studs, or the conchos?
Not if you keep it thin. Use almost nothing over stitching and around studs, and brush it out of the seams. Heavy paste is what packs into the thread. A thin wipe doesn't.
Can I use it over what's already on there? Lexol, mink oil, old wax?
Yes. Clean first so you're not sealing road film in, then go thin. It doesn't strip or dye what's there. If water beads on the seat like on a waxed hood, it's coated or it's vinyl, and nothing will go in.
My seat is dusty and grimy from sitting in the garage all winter. Will it fix that?
Clean first, then feed. A pre-cleaning wipe or a damp rag takes off the dust and the road film. The salve isn't a cleaner; it won't lift grime. Once the leather is clean and dry, yes.
Does it work on a vinyl seat?
No. Vinyl is plastic, and plastic has nothing to feed. A lot of stock seats are vinyl, so check yours. Save the jar for the bags, the jacket, and the boots.
What about the chrome, the paint, and the buckles?
If it gets on chrome or paint, wipe it off. It's plant oil and wax, nothing harsh. It doesn't polish chrome and it doesn't stop rust on buckles and studs; that's a different job.
Does it fix cracks or tears?
No. A tear needs stitching and a deep crack needs a seat shop. This feeds the leather and brings the color and the life back. If it needs a seat shop, it still needs a seat shop.
Will it change the look of an original seat on an older bike?
It doesn't dye, paint, or add a hard coat, so the original leather is still the original leather, marks and all. On a bike you're keeping original, test a hidden spot and go thin.
How is this different from Lexol, Bick 4, or Obenauf's? And what about rain?
Riders say Lexol and Bick 4 go on thin and don't do much for leather that's really sun-baked. Obenauf's brings old leather back but, in riders' own words, darkens it considerably. This wipes on, buffs dry in ten minutes, and the wax helps water bead instead of soaking in. It's not waterproofing; nothing is. Wipe the seat down after a wet ride like you would anyway.
Why pay this when a bottle of Lexol is fourteen dollars?
Because the bottle is still on your shelf, half full, and the seat is still grey. Thin conditioners are gone in a week, heavy ones go dark and waxy, and a seat shop is $300 to $500. One jar does the seat, the bags, the jacket, and the boots, and if it doesn't bring them back, you get the money back.
Will it soften the seat too much, or stretch my bags out of shape?
A light coat conditions without collapsing the shape; if a bag has to stay stiff, use less and wipe off what's left. A jacket that's gone hard can take more and sit overnight. It's a thin coat, not a soak, and soaking is what over-softens leather.
How often do I apply it, and how much does one bike take?
Once before the season, once before winter storage. More if the bike lives outside. A fingertip does a seat; a jar does the bike and the closet.